Leather – A Tradition More Than 5,000 Years Old

In 1991, after an unusually warm summer, the Niederjochferner Glacier in the South Tyrol revealed the body of Ötzi the Iceman. Dressed almost entirely in leather, he had died crossing the Alps around 3300 BC, approximately 5,300 years ago.

What’s remarkable is that Ötzi wasn’t simply wearing one type of leather. Modern DNA analysis has shown his clothing was made from several different animals, each chosen for its particular properties:  

• Coat: sheep and goat hide
• Leggings: goat leather
• Loincloth: sheep leather
• Hat: brown bear hide
• Shoes: bearskin soles with deerskin uppers and a bark-fibre net stuffed with grass for insulation

Clearly, this man knew where to shop, as he was far better equipped than some people venture into the mountains today!

For thousands of years, leather has been the material of choice for everything from footwear and clothing to saddles, armour and books.

The Origins of Vegetable Tanning

Untreated animal hide quickly hardens, shrinks and decomposes, so the discovery of leather tanning gave humans a useful and versatile material.

The earliest evidence of leather tanning dates back to ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. Early craftspeople discovered that tannins—natural compounds found in the bark, leaves and fruit of many plants—could permanently preserve animal hides.

Oak, chestnut, mimosa, quebracho and other tannin-rich plants were soaked in water to create tanning liquors. Hides were immersed in progressively stronger solutions over many weeks or even months. During this time, the tannins bonded with the collagen fibres within the leather, transforming a perishable hide into a flexible, durable material that resisted decay while remaining strong.

The word “tanning” itself comes from these naturally occurring tannins, the plant compounds that bind with collagen fibres to preserve the hide.

Although the tools have become more sophisticated, the chemistry behind vegetable tanning remains remarkably similar today.

From Craft to Industry

Until the 19th century, vegetable tanning was the only method of producing usable leather. Tanneries became established wherever clean water and a reliable supply of tree bark were available.

The Industrial Revolution brought dramatic changes. In the mid-19th century, chrome tanning was developed using chromium salts. This reduced tanning times from months to days and made large-scale production possible. Today, chrome tanning accounts for the vast majority of leather produced worldwide because it is fast, consistent and economical.

Vegetable tanning never disappeared, and today it is enjoying renewed interest, particularly among specialist leather makers and consumers who value traditional craftsmanship and leather that develops character over time.

Tuscany – The Heart of Vegetable Tanning

One of the world’s most respected centres of vegetable tanning lies in Tuscany, Italy, particularly around the towns of Santa Croce sull’Arno, Ponte a Egola and Castelfranco di Sotto.

The region has been tanning leather for centuries, benefiting from abundant water, skilled artisans and access to chestnut and oak tannins from the surrounding countryside. Today, the district remains one of the world’s leading centres for vegetable-tanned leather, with hundreds of tanneries supplying luxury fashion houses and independent leather craftsmen around the world.

Depending on the thickness of the hide and the desired finish, the tanning process could take anywhere from several weeks to more than three months—a pace that many traditional Tuscan tanneries still maintain today.

How Vegetable Tanning Differs

Unlike chrome tanning, vegetable tanning is a gradual process that allows natural tannins to bond with the leather fibres over several weeks or months.

The resulting leather:

·       develops a natural patina through handling and exposure to light

·       becomes richer in colour over time

·       retains much of the natural grain and character of the hide

·       can often be burnished, polished and restored for many years

·       is firm enough to hold its shape while remaining flexible

Daily use, sunlight, moisture and the natural oils from your hands gradually create an appearance that is unique to each piece.

In our next Journal article, we’ll explore how to care for leather goods so they can last for the decades they were designed to.